Table of Contents
- Breakfast at Anema Home
- Nebaletan Words of the Day – Zeppole, Pizza Fritta & Fried Pizz!!!
- The Road to Canale
- A Sign from Nonno?
- We Arrive – Canale di Serino
- Another Sign from Nonno?
- Pizza Review – Caraglio’s, Webster, NY
This one is long….
Breakfast at Anema Home
After our previous morning’s drive from Napoli and initial afternoon and evening in Serino, I found myself pondering how we could possibly top that first day’s experience.
But the next morning, Marissa was already hard at work in the B&B kitchen, diligently preparing breakfast after her stint at the ristorante the previous night. We both grabbed espressos and retreated to our room. Surprisingly, even on a Sunday, Renato arrived with bags of food, though the source of those groceries remains a mystery given that most of Italy is closed on Sunday mornings…accept for the collection baskets at the churches.
Within minutes, the table looked like this:
Our adventures have led us to countless B&Bs and hotel breakfasts across Italy. But let me tell you, this one? It could’ve been the best! Forget that there was pizza for breakfast because the real star of the show was the zeppoli—fresh, warm, and utterly irresistible.
These were not your typical round, balled, fried zeppole that you can find all over the South. These looked more like “American” doughnuts but with an Italian twist. But the resemblance is where it ended. These zeppoli (plural in Italian for zeppole) defied gravity—they practically floated on air, like a Crispy Cream but minus the 1/4 inch of liquified powder sugar icing. Instead, they wore a delicate coat of fine granulated sugar that whispered promises of sweet bliss.
And the flavor? Oh, it danced circles around your average Crispy Cream. You see, Crispy Cream dough can be a bit “blah,” and then there’s that icing mountain to conquer. But these zeppoli? They had a subtle hint of vanilla and a touch of light anise—an edible symphony that left us praying that Renato and Marissa would have them each day during our stay!
Nebaletan Words of the Day – Zeppole, Pizza Fritta & Fried Pizz!!!
- It wasn’t until our travels to Italy that I became acquainted with ZEPPOLE. Initially, I was hesitant, but then it dawned on me—ZEPPOLE is merely a delightful twist on PIZZA FRITTA – aka the FRIED PIZZ which I grew up on.
- ZEPPOLE – pronounced Zep-Oh-Lay, plural ZEPPOLl – pronounced Zep-Oh-Lee
- PIZZA FRITTA – pronounced Pizza Free-Tah
- FRIED PIZZ – pronounced Fried Peetz, definition – Nebaletan (Neapolitan-American) word for PIZZA FRITTA!!!
You might wonder, what exactly are ZEPPOLE and PIZZA FRITTA/FRIED PIZZ? And why should they pique your interest?
Rewind to April 13, 2022, in Post #38, where I delved into the myriad of dishes, all bearing the name ‘pizza,’ a culinary legacy inherited from the diverse regions of Southern Italy.
A quick Google search (here) for PIZZA FRITTA will reveal both savory and sweet variations, but the common thread is fried pizza dough.
The sweet version is the fried dough sprinkled with granulated sugar that I grew up on while tugging on Grandma Maouri’s apron strings as she fried away! Grandma Maouri’s family is from Molise, and she called it PIZZ! I reached out to my cousin Bonnie; she still makes FRIED PIZZ as she learned from those same apron strings!
But, I also had the savory version of PIZZA FRITTA on this trip!
As you can see with PIZZA FRITTA, you can get a savory or sweet version – BUT IT’S FRIED DOUGH!
Conduct a similar search (here) for ZEPPOLE, and you’ll predominantly encounter just sweet, fried dough delights!
So even within the term ZEPPOLE, there’s confusion as to what you might get! But IT’S STILL FRIED DOUGH!
Stroll through the vibrant streets of Naples and inquire, “Dove posso trovarlo (Where can I find) PIZZA FRITTA?” You’ll likely be directed to a street vendor crafting a savory, stuffed masterpiece of fried dough.
However, if you’re meandering down that same Neapolitan path and ask, “Dove posso trovarlo ZEPPOLE?” expect to be guided to a Pasticceria (pastry shop) offering Italy’s answer to the classic American doughnut!
My Capos, Donnie, Carm, and Chuck, all had what each called sweet, sugar-covered FRIED DOUGH at home and at church feasts as kids but now, mostly at festivals.
So, are ZEPPOLE and PIZZA FRITTA/FRIED PIZZ the same? I’m sure that there as many who’ll say yes as that will say no! But, it’s too confusing for this American to understand!
The Road to Canale
Just as before, Renato, Marissa, and I engaged in a delightful game of Italo-English “conversation” with much help from Google Translate. Their ristorante took Sunday evenings off, so we said that we’d eagerly see them for lunch instead.
When they discovered our plan to walk to Canale di Serino between breakfast and lunch, their eyebrows practically leaped off their faces. They live in Canale and are well-acquainted with the nearly 7 mile and seriously hilly round-trip trek. But Cathy and I had no qualms; we’ve already hiked 200+ miles in Italy. 🥾🌄
Armed with a Google Maps and Garmin watches, we bid farewell to Anema Home in Sala and set forth toward Canale di Serino. We know the drill: some Italian paths stretch for hours without a glimpse of civilization—no houses, no cars, not even a friendly passerby.
But not this hike! In my previous post, I mentioned that each charming hamlet of Serino is spaced roughly a mile apart. Departing from Sala, we descended toward the enclave of Ferrari; homes were scattered along the roadside and up the hillsides, yet the presence of cars and people was scarce—a typical sight on ‘domenica mattina’ or Sunday morning, as the cacophony of dueling church bells filled the air.
As we approached the piazza of Ferrari, we were greeted by a wall adorned with several murals. Each painting was a portal to Serino’s bygone eras, capturing the essence of life and times long past.
The mural depicting bocce players struck a chord, revealing that despite the profound changes that have swept through Serino since the days of Grandpa Lucio and Grandma Ruocco (Rocco), some things remain beautifully unchanged.
After passing the murals on our hike, a tiny Fiat Punto whizzed past as we descended toward the piazza in Ferrari. A sole occupant was driving, honking her horn, and waving. It was the daughter of Renato and Marissa from Anema e’ Gusto from last evening driving to the ristorante for work from her home in Canale!
The piazza of Ferrari nestles within a natural amphitheater, encircled by slopes that requires one to ascend in any direction to depart. Today, while Ferrari—and Serino at large—may not top the list of bustling tourist destinations, Ferrari once stood as a vital nexus during the Roman era.
The famed Roman Aqueducts (see here), subjects of countless history lessons, trace their origins to Serino, drawing the life-giving waters from Monte Terminio (see here). Remarkably, one can still witness these ancient waters coursing through the piazza of Ferrari, a testament to engineering marvels of antiquity.
One could conclude that the Roman Empire’s very existence hinged upon this crucial water supply, as it quenched the thirst of the vast agricultural expanses of Campania that sustained the heart of Rome.
As we climbed out of Ferrari, the area presented a stark contrast—some homes were surprisingly lavish, while others bore the marks of deep-rooted history. My gaze leapt from one to the next, my mind awash with curiosity—did Grandpa Lucio once call any of these places home? Was it within these walls that Grandma Ruocco (Rocco) took her first breath?
A Sign from Nonno?
Finally, after a 1-mile climb our of Ferrari, we saw a “sign”!
As I’ve recounted here, the Solimene (aka Solimena) surname graces Grandma Ruocco’s (and my) lineage. Both she and the illustrious Francesco Solimena, a luminary of the Baroque Period in Italy, were born in the quaint Canale di Serino. Francesco’s renown was such that he possessed a palazzo in Napoli, a testament to his stature.
Until recently, I entertained the notion that Francesco might have been an uncle or perhaps a grandfather. However, I’m now convinced that he is a grandfather.
I continue to read about Southern Italian back from many years BC, through the Roman times, through now. One tradition among Southern Italians is to bestow upon grandsons the names of their grandfathers’. This lends credence to my notion above.
Grandma Ruocco (Rocco, and thusly I) had a grandfather named Francesco Solimena. That leads to the increased probability that the elder Francesco is also a forefather. There’s no interest in riches, only the understanding of our roots and the remnants of DNA that make me tick.
We Arrive – Canale di Serino
Via Francesco Solimene is a one way “Main Street” through the middle of Canale di Serino; although there are only two roads that pass through Canale.
From the “sign”, it was a 1/2 mile uphill trek on the Via to traverse the full length of Canale. Homes, a historic building, and one business lined the length with a pristinely clean block (granite?) road.
At the end of Via Francesco Solimene is la Chiesa di San Lorenzo (the church of St. Lawrence) and another piazza.
Mass was in progress when we arrived, so, we didn’t to go inside. The church is said to date back to 1309! Inside is said to have artwork from Solimene and Guarino (Guarini), another famous Baroque artist from the adjacent city of Solofra which is also where Grandpa Lucio was born. There will be much more on Solofra in a couple of posts.
The piazza had a sign talking about Francesco Solimene, some famous buildings there, and had two water fountains with water from the previously mentioned Roman Aqueduct. There are water fountains like these all over Serino. It’s commonplace to see a car drive up to a fountain, the occupants jump out, take a swig, fill a bottle, and then head back on there way.
I remember, as a child, my father (Grandpa Tony) would drive out to North Kingsville, OH (the town adjacent to Ashtabula), to get water out of an artesian well…I’m certain that was in Grandpa Tony’s DNA!!!!
Another Sign from Nonno?
What an incredible morning. I now understand Canale and can’t wait to return to see if I can find the actual house that Grandma Ruocco (Rocco) was born or Grandpa Lucio lived!!!!
As we left Canale, we saw another sign (from Nonno?)…telling me that we had left Canale and were on our way to Michele (Michael)….
Pizza Review – Caraglio’s, Webster, NY
In my post of May 27, 2024 (here), I shared my thoughts about Caraglio’s pizza. Although, I thought Caraglio’s was good, my curiosity got the best of me—I yearned to experience their New York-style pizza. Yet, when I placed my web order, the allure of a thicker crust proved irresistible!
Caraglio’s, being a local chain, beckoned me to compare the one near our house with the outlet near our kids’ homes. The only variables? Location and pizza dimensions. It’s a delightful experiment to gauge whether this joint maintains consistency across its various spots.
| Date | May 30, 2024 |
| Pizzeria | Caraglio’s Pizza |
| City/Neighborhood | Webster, NY / Empire Boulevard |
| Website | Caraglio’s Pizza – Serving the Rochester NY area | Pizza, Wings & more (caragliospizza.com) |
| About Us | STILL NONE – that’s too bad! |
| Style | Other – thick crust like a Sicilian, but round |
| Ambiance | Delivery |
| Beverage Pairing | Athletic Brewing IPA |
| Rating Criteria | |
| Shape | Round |
| Dough/Crust | Tickness – Tick Cook – Soft, Chewy, not much bubbles, Undercooked and raw in spots Flavor – not heavily flavored the taste of the sauce and even more so the cheese, overwhelmed any crust flavors Caraglio’s website allows you to specify many things. Tickness, amount of sauce, amount of cheese, and toppings can all be specified. Unfortunately, some parts were undercooked, not raw, but on the wetter side |
| Cornicione | Just same as the dough/crust. There is very little distinction between |
| Toppings | 1/2 Pepperoni, full Cheese Fresh – unsure Pepperoni had a great cup and char, also very spicy |
| Sauce | Tangy, Savory, Thick, and Rich tomato taste Nicely done |
| Cheese | Cheese Type – Moozedell and something sharp, either parmagian or some provolone thrown in Cheese Distribution All over Stringy, Salty (likely from either the parmagian or provolone). Very tasty but just too much for me |
| Cheese to Sauce Ratio | Sauce – Medium to A lot, I had specified extra sauce in the web app Cheese – Medium to A lot Balance – out of balance, still too much cheese for me |
| Value | The price of their round pizza is great at 16″ for $20 which is about $11 for an 12” equivalent. The value is even better on Monday and Tuesday when it’s $13 for a 14” which is less than $10 for a 12” equivalent!!! |
| Overall Rating | Good – Despite the flavor of the sauce, the over use of cheese, and the undercooked dough are a turn off. This is the same rating that I gave it a few weeks ago. Conversely, this pizza very much reminded me of the pizza I had as a kid from the neighborhood Pizzeria, Anita’s. Chuck, my friend, worked there, and we’d get extra of everything when we ordered! |
| Would I Go Back? | Likely, but only for the Monday and Tuesday deals, the pizza’s good, but not good enough to buy at full price. But like I said in the first review, I’ll order a thin NY Style! |
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