A LONG ONE, BUT I PROMISE IT WILL BE ABOUT PIZZA!
One the most moving videos for me on YouTube is Pavarotti’s “Torna A Surriento”.
Other than Pavarotti’s moving rendition and the story behind the song (see Wikipedia here), Surriento (Sorrento, Campania, Italy) is one of my favorite places on earth, and one that my mended heart has longed for the past 2 years of Covid having last been here in 2019.
Sorrento does a heart good, in the meantime, I had Pavarotti!
If you’ve ever been Italy you will know in the cities that you can’t go more than a couple hundred yards without running into a restaurant (aka Trattoria or Pizzeria). While walking around Sorrento, we ran into a restaurant. I had no interest in but our travel partner suggested that we go, especially at the owner hocking his wears outside the door.
The restaurant was L’osteria del Buonconvento Sorrento. The outside left something to be desired since it was under construction which turned me off. As we know, you shouldn’t judge a book by it’s cover.
What the outside of Buonconvento lacks is more than made up for by the STUNNING interior. Bounconvento is in a former aristocratic home built in the 1600s and donated to the Dominican Nuns.
Neapolitan (Since I’m in Sorrento) Sorrentino Phrases of the Dayl
Facimme ‘Na Cosa ‘E Juòrne – Neapolitan slang for“let’s do this thing” or more literally “Let’s get this done in daylight.” In other words, “what are we waiting for, nighttime?”
My mother used to say “fin amend” Nebelatan shorted phase of exasperation with her implying “it’s about time.” Please do not confuse this with “sfacim” (see here for meaning) or you will be a sfacim!
So, ”fin amend”. It’s about time we talk pizza!
L’orsteria is defined as “a place serving wine,” which I’m sure that the nuns knew nothing about, especially since the convent was immediately across from a monastery. But, maybe the nuns needed some loosening up when the priests paid a visit…so, I digress…again.
I must say, the wine was cheap and exquisite BUT THE PIZZA WAS TO DIE FOR.
TO THE POINT, IT’S THE BEST DOUGH/CRUST THAT I’VE EVER EATEN (with concurrence from our other travelers). Having great crust is at least 50% of the way to a GREAT PIZZA!
The crust was paper thin in the middle, the most airy cornicione possible, and well, but not over, charred! It literally melted in the mouth.
Since Sorrento is in the Metropolitan Citta di’ Napoli, one would expect nothing less than fabulous. And the sauce and cheese lived up to that billing.
The Sauce – very simple tomato, nothing else; no other discernible spice. The incredible tangy, sweet taste of fresh San Marzano, likely picked fresh just miles away, is all that is needed.
The cheese was just enough to add a creamy and stringy texture without being overwhelming. Given its texture, it was likely fresh bufala moozadell from Paestum just up the road south.
So, how does it get so good? Well, obviously technique and ingredients. But take a look at this oven!
The oven is original from the convent. Turns out the nuns really knew how to cook (just ask the priests…ba dump dump)! A stunning work of art; wood fired and lined with lava bricks from Vesuvius! The temp was pegged at over 500C (932F+)!
WHEN IT’S LIKELY THE BEST PIZZA THAT I EVER HAD, WHAT ELSE IS THERE TO SAY!?
BTW, I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention that L’osteria was my SECOND pizza of the day!
In Vietri Sul Mare, another Amalfi Coast favorite, and the home of the world famous Ceramica Artistica Solimene which is a ceramics factory and outlet store. Solimene is a family name on my father’s side!
While in Vietri we stopped at a mom and pop, Bar Ariston. All the pastries, calzone, and pizza were made by the owner.
I ordered a square from what looked like a Sicilian style pie. The dough/crust was a little chewy and a little undercooked, but it had that distinctive Neapolitan “flavor”. The sauce was simple without spices and tangy, likely canned San Marzano. There was little cheese.
It was good at best and “meh” at worst. Since we’d been to Bar Ariston before, but not for pizza, I can’t say I won’t go back (the pastries ans espresso are great), but probably not for pizza.
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